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What is a Sealant?

A sealant is a synthetic wax, also sometimes referred to as a polymer. It is engineered with polymers and is designed to last longer than traditional (organic) waxes. Most pure sealants last from 9-15 months, depending on the exposure and upkeep.

For more information on waxes and other terminology Click Here

How Do I Prep the Paint?

The most important part of applying a sealant is paint prep. The paint needs to be free of oils and waxes. The sealant must be applied directly to a clean surface. If you used a polish to prepare the paint for a sealant, be sure that the polish does not contain waxes or oils. Many polishes and car washes have small amounts of gloss enhancers, that can interrupt the adhering of a sealant.

Once the car is washed and dried, you may wish to use a paint prep product. This product is a liquid cleaner that will remove any residual oils from the paint.

Paint Prep Cleaners Examples:

Applying the Sealant by Hand

Sealants generally need to be applied in warm areas, and not in direct sunlight.  Sealants should be applied very thin and are usually clear or light coloured. Prepare to do one panel at a time, applying the sealant using a sealant applicator. Be sure the applicator is a dense foam as you do not want to waste product by allowing it to absorb in the applicator.

Pre-dampen (with the sealant you are using) the applicator and apply the sealant on one 3"x3" foot section at a time, letting the sealant set the recommended amount of time. (This can be found on the bottle.) Many sealants recommend sitting for a maximum of 5 minutes.

Buff off the residue by hand using a soft, clean microfiber towel.

Sealant Applicator Examples:

Applying a Sealant by Machine

Sealant can be applied by machine, using a sealant or finishing pad.  Pre-dampen (with the sealant you are using) the pad and apply the sealant on one 3"x3" foot section at a time. Let the sealant set the recommended amount of time. (This can be found on the bottle.) Many sealants recommend sitting for a maximum of 5 minutes.

Buff off the residue by hand using a soft, clean microfiber towel.

Examples of Paint Sealants:

Maintain your sealant by washing and drying your car safely.

We have been getting a lot of questions about trim.  How do I wash my trim?  How do I protect it?  Can I polish and seal the trim? Let's explore some options to properly maintain your cars plastic and rubber trim.

Washing Trim

When washing your car it is safe to use all car wash soaps on your plastic trim.  They are gentle enough not to damage or dry out your trim.  If you are using a dish soap, or all purpose cleaner do not allow the suds to dry on the surface.  This could cause fading and dry out the plastic.

If you are only working on the trim, and not planning on washing the entire vehicle there are products designed to clean rubber and plastics deeply.  Only use these if you are planning to restore or protect the trim afterward. They will leave the surface clean and free of oils, but will not offer protection from the elements.

popular car wash soaps

Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds

Carpro Hydro2 Foam Wash

OBSSSSD Auto Wash Shampoo (16oz)

Products to Restore the Plastics

Ideally you want to keep your trim black and protected.  By regularly washing and protecting the trim you should be able to avoid most fading and discolorations.   If you have a vehicle that has faded trim there are several products that will help to bring back the shine.  These are often referred to "trim restorer" products and they will help to re-hydrate the plastic and leave the surface less faded.  Depending on the condition of the trim this may not bring it all the way back to new.

trim restoration products

How to Protect Your Moldings

I often get asked by customers if they can put the same wax on their plastics as they do on the rest of the car.  The answer is 95% of the time NO! When traditional wax is applied to the plastic moldings it often leaves a white stain.  It is actually dried on wax and can be very hard to remove.  In fact we sell several products that their only purpose is removing dried on wax.  Once the surface is clean, any vinyl/rubber/plastic protectant or shine will work to protect your moldings. It will depend on your preference for shine and durability.  Most often the products that offer the longest durability do cost the most. 

Plastic Protectants

The other 5% of the time?   Some quick detailers and spray waxes are designed to be used on multiple surfaces.  These will add gloss and protection to your plastic/rubber as well as your painted surface.

You car is clean, shiny, protected, and wet......   Now what?  The most common time for damaging paint is the drying process.   You are taking freshly polished and protected paint, and rubbing it with something that can carry abrasives causing swirls and scratches.  How do you not cause swirl marks?  What exactly are swirl marks?  Chamois, waffle weave, leaf blower?   Lets look at these questions in detail.

Why is Drying Dangerous?

It's been said that 95% of swirls are caused by improper drying. What you use to dry your car is very important. The paint is a relatively soft surface that can easily be damaged.  The small scratches, often referred to as swirls or spider webs, are micro scratches in your paint.   Any time a substance is used on the vehicles surface it is important that it is clean and soft.  

Drying Options

Waffle Weave Microfiber Towel

Waffle weaves are made from a microfiber polyester blend designed for maximum absorption.  They work extremely well.  Often you can dry an entire vehicle without wringing out the towel. Like all microfibre, the waffle weave towel does has specific care instructions.  For a detailed care directions please visit our blog on washing microfibre towels.

Natural Chamois

Pros: highly absorbent, old school feel Cons: not uniformly shaped may be harder spots where the animal was injured Surface must be extremely clean and free of debris

Natural Chamois' are made from sheep skin.  They are organic and usually quite expensive.  They have a quality feel, and are absorbent.  If they are not properly stored they can break down and mold, as they are organic.  They feel soft and have a "rich" feel while in use.

Water Blade

Pros: Quickly drys flat(ish) surfaces Easy to clean Very Long Lasting Cons: Does not completely dry the surface Hard to use on complex shapes

A water blade is easy to wash, and works relatively well.  It will remove 90% of the water from a flat or slightly curved surface, but still requires a final dry with a secondary method.  It is also hard to use on tight spots, and curves.

Synthetic Chamois

Pros: Highly absorbent Long lasting easy to clean Cons: Extremely clean surface required. Easy to contaminate

Synthetic Chamois' are made from fabric that is designed to mimic a natural chamois, but without the inconsistent thickens and shape.  Care is usually quite easy, and they are absorbent.

Leaf Blower

Pros: No material touches the surface Moves the water off of the surfaces Blows water out of areas not possible using other materials. Does not contact the surface Cons: Shooting air born debris into your paint is a possibility especially if there is no inlet filter.

A leaf blower is often used as a car dryer.  It is a good choice because as opposed to a cloth it does not rub on the surface of the vehicle.  The most dangerous issue for a leaf blower is that there is no air filter.  This can cause the blower to shoot debris at your vehicle.  The assault on the surface could cause swirls and contaminate the paint with organic particle such as pollen, weeds, and other dust from the air.

Car Dryer

Pros: No material touches the surface Moves the water off of the surfaces Does not contact the surface Different attachments are available  Cons: Can be expensive to purchase

 A car dryer, such as the Master blaster, jet blower, etc. is a great choice.  It does have a higher price tag, but it is filtered, and protects your investment and the time that you put into your vehicle.  It has different options to be sure that you are getting into every corner, and does not actually touch the painted surface.

That lists the majority of drying options, you should pick the one you are most comfortable with.  If you have any questions about washing your car, using the two bucket method, please read our blog on car washing here.

What is a microfiber towel?

Microfiber is the name used to describe ultra-fine manufactured fibers and the name given to the technology of developing these fibers. Fibers made using microfiber technology, produce fibers which weigh less than 0.1 denier. The fabrics made from these extra-fine fibers provide a superior hand, a gentle drape and incredible softness. Microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair. Microfiber cloths have many uses for detailing enthusiasts, they are ideal for: Removing Wax, Polishing, Cleaning Glass and removing dust from most surfaces. They do a great job without the worry of scratching your surfaces.

This is different from traditional "rags" and cloths because of the split fibers because they are able to work better on a micro level. These fibers connect better to the paint, resulting in more surface tension and a better finish.

Microfiber Towels

Washing
It is important to take special care of your microfiber towels. They're a great investment, and can last years with the proper care. 

Main rules:
NO HEAT
NO FABRIC SOFTENER
Only wash microfibers with other microfibers.

Most of the time, hot water is enough to wash your microfiber towels. But with heavily soiled towels or you have a lot of towels to wash this may not be the best option. These are gentle cleaners, with no fabric softeners or heavy detergents. 

Microfiber Washes:

To dry, hanging them is the preferred method, however you can also dry them in the dryer on the no heat setting.

Clay bars are used to remove organic and metal contaminates in the surface.  In layman terms they make your surface rough and gritty. 

Glass does not need a special clay bar, and most clay bars are safe for glass.  The only bars I would not recommend for glass are "heavy" or "aggressive" clay bars.  They may leave marring on the glass and need to be polished afterwards.

With any clay bar, make sure to use the proper clay lubricant.  Soaps and water-less washes can often breakdown the clay bars, causing them to crumble and fall apart.

When the claying is complete, you need to protect the glass with a sealant.  This will prevent the glass from yellowing, and help protect it from external contaminates.

Have a questions for ask anything?  E-mail it to info@eshine.  If you are chosen you will receive a $25 gift card.